While waiting and waiting for our train…any train to show up, we met an older couple from North Carolina. The four of us made a backup plan in case we were forever stranded in La Spezia, a town only 8 minutes by train from our final destination, Riomaggiore. We would share a taxi and split the cost…it seemed like a viable plan, that is until we found out it could cost up to 100 euros for the ride. Feeling broke we tried our luck and waited a bit longer, thankfully a train showed up and everyone cheered as it left the station.
Upon arriving in our destination Riomaggiore, the first town of the
five we got off the train and began our search for our apartment. Luckily our
host had given us very helpful and descriptive directions on how to find it. We
walked past the beautiful marina and up many stairs (or at least it felt like a
lot with our bags in tow). We found our apartment and stumbled up the steep
stairs in the dark (after being unable to find the light switch). We opened the
door to our room and got quite the surprise when we saw how incredibly small it
was. The host had not been lying when she told us it would be tricky to fit
three people in there. (Up until 2 days ago when he had to cancel, our Italian
friend Andrea was going to join us for the night)
Since we only had one night here and wanted to make the best of it we
quickly got ready to go out. After applying our sunscreen and putting on our
running shoes we went in search of the hiking trail. Little did we know the
scenic route was closed this summer for construction. I thought about walking
right over the small sign blocking the path, but decided to play it safe and
look for another path. We wandered around for a bit and found the small town
centre to buy some snacks. We became tired of looking around aimlessly for
another path so decided to make a plan.
On our second day in Cinque Terre we woke up at 5:50am to the sound of
a thunderstorm. I almost screamed when the loudest thunder I’ve ever heard
cracked outside our small open window. I prayed that the rain would stop or settle
down before nine when we hoped to catch the ferry. To our dismay the rainstorm
didn’t seem to be going anywhere.
One thing I’ve learned on this trip is that the Italian train system is unreliable and confusing. It took us a while to figure out which of the two tracks our train would actually arrive at. Once we did, we still had to wait forty-five minutes due to delays. When our train finally arrived, we rode for less than ten minutes to get to Monterosso, the last of the five towns. We thought this would be one of the most beautiful, you know, the one you see when you Google image Cinque Terre, but turns out we mixed it up with Manarola. We arrived to see a long beach and a few nice colourful buildings.
We were starving from only having our small cups of yoghurt in the
morning so we sat down at the first restaurant we saw. Once again we chose one
based on its great view of the sea. We ordered hot drinks and pasta, which was
served with really good focaccia bread. Jess tried out “pasta stuffed with
walnut sauce”, which translated must mean stuffed pasta covered in walnut
sauce. We realized we still had a few hours to kill before our train, but were
a little worried about possible delays making us miss it. Therefore we decided
to visit just one more town on our way to La Spezia: Manarola.
Once on the train Jess frantically started to pat at her purse and
looked at me in a complete state of worry and said “I can’t find my passport”.
We searched through all her bags frantically but it didn’t seem to be anywhere.
Jess was sure she had never taken it out of her purse and had remembered seeing
it when we were in Monterosso. She decided to take the train back and look
around through the station and the restaurant to see if it had fallen out at
any point. I took both of our bags and was to meet her at La Spezia.
The first train to La Spezia came when I was on the other side of two
sets of stairs, and I decided it would be impossible for me to walk back in
time with two heavy bags. The next train wasn’t for another hour so I walked
out of the station in search of the photo from all the postcards. I walked down
many stairs and a long steep slope before I reached the water. I realized if I
wanted to see the whole village I would have to walk far out along a mountain
and was just not willing to with two bags. So I took a few shots of the nice
view I had and struggled back to the station to wait for the train.
Luckily it showed up close to on time and I arrived at La Spezia at
four to meet Jess. Our train was sitting waiting for us and we sighed in relief
as we sat down, happy that we didn’t miss it. Sadly Jess has yet to find her
passport, but will be back in Rome (where the embassy is located) with her
parents later this week and hopefully will be able to get a new one. Although
almost everything that could go wrong did go wrong, I’m still glad we went
because Cinque Terre is a beautiful place and at least now I have some
interesting stories to tell!
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